The Fragil "Mystic" Topaz

One of the most beautiful gemstones currently on the market is the "Mystic" Topaz. You can find one in some 64 known colors and probably a few more on Cruise Ships that haven't been advertised. One thing not always stressed to the buyer of all varieties of "Mystic" Topaz is the fact that "Mystic" Topaz is nothing more than colorless topaz that has been subjected to a vapor deposit process by which a variety of secret ingredients are coated on the surface of the stone creating the various colors and sparkle. There is no "Mystic" Topaz mine, but there is a fabulous "Mystic" Topaz manufacture that I linked to a couple years ago on my web-site at http://www.jewelrybycnc.com/ that is still in business, and you can browse his site at http://www.mystictopaz.com/ to view many varieties of "Mystic" Topaz as well as many other gemstones.

The real problem with "Mystic" Topaz is not just that it easily scratches, but that it is also very fragil, to the point that it can be damaged by a jeweler's tweezers during setting and especially resetting, any kind of normal wear and tear, and even heat and cold. But another real problem is that you cannot clean the stone.

Below you see two images. At one time these two stones were identical in color. But one was placed in a normal jeweler's ultrasonic cleaner with the same ammonia and water solution that is sold as jewelry cleaner around the world. You can see that in a very short period of time all of the coating was removed by the ultrasonic cleaner. Meaning that any mystic topaz gemstone set in any kind of ring with diamonds or other gemstones can never be properly cleaned. The only option is a cursory cleaning in plain water, maybe with a small amount of Dove Soap. Which by itself will not remove things like hand lotion, body oils, and perfumes. Meaning that once your mystic topaz ring gets dirty, you are pretty much stuck with a dirty ring.

Probably 98% of all gemstones are treated in some form or another, heat, dying, radiation, infusion, etc. Without treatments, the available number of gemstones on the market would be greatly reduced. And as long as treatments are properly disclosed to consumers, they present many valuable streams of revenue to the independent retail jeweler around the world.

But this craze over Mystic Topaz has just gone a bit overboard. The treatment is too fragile to be viable. There is just too much promotion going on that leaves out the fact that this treatment is temporary, at best. The coating can be flaked off by your fingernail. It cannot withstand heat or cold. And more important, it cannot be properly cleaned after being set into jewelry items with other gemstones. But "Mystic" Topaz is beautiful, and certain manufactures are now claiming that their treatment procedures are becoming more perimenent. Hopefully if one acquires a "Mystic" Topaz, no matter what color, it is of the newer and more perminent coloration nature.

An original green colored "Mystic" Topaz.

North Carolina Emerald - a Big One !

An emerald so large it's being compared with the crown jewels of Russian empress Catherine the Great was pulled from a pit near corn rows at a North Carolina farm. The nearly 65-carat emerald, its finders are marketing by the name Carolina Emperor ,was pulled from a farm once so well known among treasure hunters that the owners charged $3 a day to shovel for small samples of the green stones. After the gem was cut and re-cut, the finished product was about one-fifth the weight of the original find, making it slightly larger than a U.S. quarter and about as heavy as a AA battery.

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The emerald compares in size and quality to one surrounded by diamonds in a brooch once owned by Catherine the Great, who was empress in the 18th century, that Christie's auction house in New York sold in April for $1.65 million, said C.R. "Cap" Beesley, a New York gemologist who examined the stone. While big, uncut crystals and even notable gem-quality emeralds have come from the community 50 miles northwest of Charlotte, called Hiddenite, there has never been one so big it's worthy of an imperial treasury.

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It is the largest cut emerald ever to be found in North America. The discovery is a rarity for emeralds found not in the rich veins of South America and Asia but in North America. Most of the stones that have come out have not been gem-quality that I would mount in jewelry, said Simon, who was part owner of a 7.85-carat, dime-sized emerald found in the same community in 1998 that has since been set in jewelry and sold to a private owner. Terry Ledford, 53, found the roughly 2-inch-square chunk rimmed with spots of iron a year ago on a 200-acre farm owned by business partner Renn Adams, 90, and his siblings. The rural community of Hiddenite is named for a paler stone that resembles emerald. "It was so dark in color that holding it up to the sun you couldn't even get the light to come through it," a quality that ensured an intense green hue once the stone was cut with facets that allowed light into the gem's core, Ledford said. The North Carolina stone was cut to imitate the royal emerald. A museum and some private collectors interested in buying the emerald have been in contact. Modeling an empress's emerald is likely to have less influence on the North Carolina stone's sale price than its clarity, color and cut.

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Adams said decades ago when his parents owned the farm, they allowed anyone with a shovel to dig for emeralds on the property for $3 a day. Virtually all of it was too full of flaws to be cut into precious stones and was mostly sold to mineral collectors.

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Thanks to the AP and IGS for alerting us to this find.

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Metal Clay in Jewelry Making !

For many jewelry makers who have dreamed of working with metal but have had nightmares about using the torch, Metal Clay, also called Precious Metal Clay (PMC) and Art Clay, may be their dream come true. However, keep in mind that while you don't need to use a torch to necessarily solder metals together, it can be helpful to know a little about metal work in order to clean and finish metal clay pieces.

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Metal clay is a clay-like medium used to make jewelry, beads and small sculpture. It consists of very small particles of precious metals (such as Silver, Gold or Platinum) mixed with an organic binder and water. Metal clay can be shaped just like any soft clay, by hand or using moulds. After drying, it can be fired in a variety of ways including in a kiln, with a handheld gas torch, or on a gas stove. The binder burns away, leaving the pure, sintered metal. Shrinkage of between 8% and 30% occurs (depending on the product used), but this is exploited by artisans to produce very fine detail.

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Silver metal clay results in objects containing .999 pure silver - aka fine silver, which is ideal for enameling. Although gold metal clay is much more expensive to use, the color and richness is phenomenal. It can be used to make stunning solid gold objects or used sparingly to make beautiful accents on silver pieces. Lump metal clay is sold in sealed packets to keep it moist and workable. The silver versions are also available as a softer paste in a pre-filled syringe which can be used to produce extruded forms, in small jars of slip and as paper-like sheets, from which most of the moisture has been removed.

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There are two popular brands of this material, Precious Metal Clay (PMC) and Art Clay Silver (ACS).

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Precious Metal Clay or PMC was developed in the early 1990s in Japan by metallurgist Dr. Morikawa. The material consists of microscopic particles of pure silver or fine gold powder and a water-soluble, non-toxic, organic binder which burns off during firing. Success was first achieved with gold, and later duplicated with silver. The original formula of PMC, now called "Standard", must be fired in a kiln at 900 °C (1,650 °F) and has a shrinkage rate of 30%. Mitsubishi Materials Corp later developed two additional versions of silver called "PMC+" which can be fired as low as 810 °C (1,490 °F) for 30 minutes, and "PMC3", which can be fired as low as 599 °C (1,110 °F) for 45 minutes. Both PMC+ and PMC3 have a shrinkage rate of 12-15% and may also be fired with a handheld torch for 4-7 minutes. A 22k gold gilding material called "Aura 22", and lump 22k yellow gold clay (an alloy of fine silver and gold) are also available. PMC also manufactures an 18k gold clay and a platinum clay, but these latter two are only marketed in Japan.

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Art Clay Silver or ACS was developed by AIDA Chemical Industries, another Japanese company. Art Clay followed PMC Standard with their Art Clay Original clay (more like PMC+ than PMC Standard), which allows the user to fire with a handheld torch or on a gas hob. Due to subtle differences in the binder and suggested firing times, this clay shrinks less than the PMC versions, approximately 8-10%. Further developments introduced the Art Clay Slow Dry, a clay with a longer working time. Art Clay 650 and Art Clay 650 Slow Dry soon followed - both clays that can be fired as low as 650 °C (1,202 °F), allowing the user to combine the clay with glass and sterling silver which are affected negatively by the higher temperatures needed to fire the first generation clays. AIDA also manufacturers Oil Paste, a product only used on fired metal clay or milled fine silver, and Overlay Paste, which is designed for drawing designs on glass and porcelain. In 2006 AIDA also introduced the Art Clay Gold Paste, a more economical way to work with gold. The paste is painted onto the fired silver clay, then refired in a kiln, or with a torch or gas stove. When fired it bonds with the silver, giving a 22ct gold accent. The same year also saw Art Clay Slow Tarnish introduced, a clay which tarnishes less rapidly than the other metal clays.

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A do-it-yourself version called Silver Smith's Metal Clay Powder is available in a dry powder form to which the user adds water to obtain any desired consistency.

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This book is a great guide for getting a start in Metal Clay Jewelry.

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Transparent Crystalline Turquoise

Transparent Turquoise Crystals are extremely rare, and small. In fact, a lot of people question the existence of transparent turquoise crystals. But there are indeed formations of transparent turquoise crystals found in several locations around the world. One of the first finds was in the US State of Virginia in 1912. For many years this was the only known location where transparent turquoise had been found. But today there are several locations around the world where this rare mineral specimen has been located.
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As you can see to the left, the crystals are very, very small, averaging around 1 mm in size, and since they are on the side of the host rock formation, it is extremely difficult to get them under a microscope for imaging.
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Thanks to Robert James and the ISG for the pictures of this rare type of Turquoise.
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GEMSTONE JEWELRY - Back to the Far North !

We return to the lands of the far north again for another design using gemstones from Labrador and Norway.

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This specific design incorporates Labradorite rectangles from Labrador and Larvakite rounds from Norway. They are intersperced with clear crystal and silver beads. Earrings using matching gemstones and crystals complete the set.

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Labradorite is a feldspara intermediate to calcic member of the plagioclase series. Streak seen within the stone is white, like most silicates. Twinning is common. As with all plagioclase members the crystal system is triclinic and three directions of cleavage are present, two of which form nearly right angle prisms. Labradorite occurs as a nearly clear, white to grey rocky to lath grained rock. Labradorite is found on Paul's Island near the town of Nain in Labrador, Canada. It occurs in large crystal masses in anorthosite and shows a play of colors called labradorescence. The labradorescence, or schiller effect, is the result of light refracting within lamellar intergrowths resulting from phase exsolution on colling in the Boggild miscibility gap. Gemstone varieties of labradorite exhibiting a high degree of labradorescence are called Spectrolite: Moonstone and Sunstone are also commonly used terms, and high-quality samples with good qualities are desired for jewelry.

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Larvakite is a variety of Labradorite that comes from Norway. Larvakite originates from the town of Larvik in Norway, where this specific type of igneous rock is found. The crystallisation of this ternary feldspar indicates that Larvakite began to crystallise under lower crustal conditions than did Labradorite. Larvakite posses the same labradoresence characteristics as Labradorite and the two can eaasily be confused.

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GEMSTONE JEWELRY - Mixing Materials Again !

Glass, Crystals and Gemstones ! Not a combination one would automatically think of, but when the glass is cut or formed correctly, and the crystals and gemstones have been cut and polished also, you have a unique combination for the “discerning” jewelry wearer.
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This unique design incorporates light blue and green Sonoran Glass leaves in two sizes, with large clear crystals inbetween and then the necklace is completed with Lotus Jasper puff oval beads and small clear crystals. A silver plated toggle clash completes the necklace. Matching blue glass leaves and clear crystals dange from French Hook earrings to complete the set.
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Sonoran Leaves are a specially fired glass that is made into the shape of leaves in different sizes for use in pendants and earrings. Boro glass is a particular type of glass, better known under the brand name of Pyrex. It was first developed in the late 19th century and was used primarily for scientific glass due to its strength and durability. Artists have started to use boro glass for bead making even though it is a very hard glass and requires high heat to form a bead. Boro glass has a very distinctive range of colors from varions other minerals or impurities, often much more vibrant than the softer European glass. Sonoran Leaf pieces are made one at a time, in a flame. Because they are made by hand there may be slight variations in color from one batch to another. Do not confuse these Sonoran Leaves with other types of poured or fused glass leave made in bulk.
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Lotus Jasper -- Jasper, a form of chalcedony which is an opaque impure variety of silica, usually red, yellow, brown, or green in color. Blue is rare. This mineral breaks with a smooth surface, and is used for ornamentation or as a gemstone in jewelry. It can be highly polished and is used for vases, seals, and statues. When the colors are in stripes or bands, it is called striped or banded jasper. Lotus Jasper, a specifically named variety first found in Japan, is a milky white somewhat opaque gemstone with green blotches or patches following on the ancient name which means "spotted or speckled stone".
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Sonoran Leaves are an exclusive of Sonoran Bead Inc.

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GEMSTONE JEWELRY - Agate & Jasper or Agate or Jasper ! !

Sometimes we have an Agate, sometimes we have a Jasper, sometimes we have a name and not sure which exact gemstone we have. Many times we try to find an "easy answer" where there isn't one. The basic difference between Agate and Jasper is a structural one - at the microscopic level. It has nothing to do with the color or pattern. Agate is composed of microscopic 'fibers' of crystalline quartz. Jasper is composed of microscopic 'grains' of crystalline quartz. Jasper has less-regular patterns and is less defined than the Agates. Another subtle difference between the two is that Agates tend to be translucent (or at least contain translucent bands), while Jaspers are generally opaque.

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This is a warm and comfortable design that incorporates Autumn colors - orange brown, red and rust. By using a colorful Agate/Jasper pendant, Breciated Jasper carved twists, Carnelian rounds and Antique Brass beads with crystal highlights, we make a smooth transition from the warmth of Summer to the coolness of Autumn. Matching French Hook earrings complete the set.

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Agate - No gemstone is more creatively striped by nature than agate. This distinct and dramatically banded variety of Quartz comes in layers. Agate composition varies greatly and can be of many colors. Each individual Agate forms by filling a cavity in a host rock. As a result, Agate often is found as a round nodule with concentric bands like the rings of a tree trunk. It is said to be named for the place it first was found along the River Achates (now called the River Drillo) in Sicily.

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Jasper coming from Greek origin, "iaspis", means "spotted stone." This form of semiprecious microcrystalline Quartz is usually red, brown or green. Its patterns are much less regular and defined than those of its sister variety, Agate. Although the term Jasper is often applied to unidentified stones, true Jaspers are metamorphic rocks. Jasper derives its colorful patterns from other minerals present, and is often named according to its pattern. It has a dull luster but takes a fine polish, and its hardness and other physical properties are those of Quartz. Jasper is often sealed with petroleum products. Its polish might wash away in water, so clean with a soft, dry cloth.

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Carnelian is an A-grade Agate. What a lot of people call "true carnelian" is the fiery red/orange color, and in theory, Carnelian is naturally that color. However, most of that fiery red/orange "true" Carnelian is heat-treated in secret before it reaches the gemstone-cutting factory. This apparently has been a secret for thousands of years; each part of the world thought everyone else's Carnelian was naturally red, but they were heating theirs, too. When held against the light, the color-treated Carnelian shows its color in stripes, while natural Carnelian shows a cloudy distribution of color. The name Carnelian is said to be derived from the Latin word 'carnis' ("flesh") due to its color. Deposits of Carnelian are found in Brazil, India, Australia, Russia, Madagascar, South Africa, Uruguay and the U.S.A.

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GEMSTONE JEWELRY - Amber & Turquoise !

Initially the Indians of the Southwest used shells, spiny oyster and some corals to add color to their Turquoise, Magnesite and Agate jewelry. From time to time traders would provide them with Amber, which was quickly incorporated into designs.

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This design incorporates Baltic Amber and stabilized Arizona Turquoise chips with a turquoise colored Howlite tear drop pendant and Black Agate (Onyx) barrels with a silver toggle clasp. Matching French Hook Amber and Turquoise chip earrings complete the set.

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To help understand the types of Turquoise on today's market. the following is provided----

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Natural - This comes directly from the mine. It is cut shaped and polished and set into jewelry. It has no man made treatment or additives other than a polishing compound that adds to its luster. Several pieces of natural Turquoise from Arizona, can be seen to the right and are beautiful with very little polishing. Most stones in this state are very close to gem quality. The coloration of natural Turquoise can darken as oils from the skin work its way into the stone over the years, especially of not properly cleaned.

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Stabilized – This is a natural turquoise usually in nugget form, but does not hold a luster. It is submerged into a stabilizing compound and dried, cut and prepared for jewelry. The turquoise has not been altered. The pores of the stone have been filled with a clear resin that makes the stone usable. This process allows for diversity of shapes and possibilities in jewelry making. Color Stabilized stones are considered altered and sometimes color has been added in this process. This in not necessarily bad, but it has less value than a piece that is naturally colored. Stabilized Turquoise usually does not change color with wear and because of its hardness, wears better in jewelry.

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Treated - This form of color enhancement has been used for thousands of years. It is done as discussed earlier by submerging Turquoise stones into animal fat or vegetable oil and later air dried. Normally the color will not last very long. A new variety on the market, called "Motaska" and "Majave" Stone is much more stable and retains its color as well as being infused with gold, silver and copper.

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Fake and Synthetic – Ceramics, bone, celluloid and plastic are used to imitate turquoise. Synthetic turquoise has a very natural matrix that is produced by placing stones in the synthetic “batter”.

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Imatations - Then there are the imatations, in many cases natural gemstones that are beautiful in their own right, but due to the fact they accept dyes, many times are dyed the various turquoise colors and then are sold by unscrupulous dealers as real Turquoise. Price becomes the real determining factor when it comes to seperating real Turquoise from dyed Howlite, Magnesite or Ivoryite.

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Black Agate (Onyx) which is truely a died black Agate, is more common and perhaps the most famous variety, but not as common as natural Onyx. Onyx is a crypyocrystalline form of Quartz. The colors of its bands range from white to almost every color (save some shades, such as purple or blue). A picture of a true Black Onyx specimum is seen at the left. True specimens of Onyx contain bands of colors of white, tan, and brown. As stated, the pure black form which most people know as Onyx, is not a naturally occuring variety. Black Agate or poorly colored Onyx is heated and dyed black to come up with the pure black form so well liked within the jewelry industry.

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Amber - The Baltic region is home to the largest known deposit of Amber, called Baltic amber, with about 80% of the world's known amber found there. It dates back some 44 million years ago. It has been estimated that these forests created over 105 tons of amber. Because Baltic amber contains about 8% succinic acid, it is also termed succinite. It was thought since the 1850s that the resin that became Amber was produced by the tree Pinites succinifer, but research in the 1980's came to the conclusion that the resin originates from several species. Numerous extinct genera and species of plants and animals have been discovered and scientifically described from inclusions in Baltic Amber. Do NOT confuse Amber with Copal. Copal is not the fossilized, but rather an immature recent resin. Increasingly, Copal is being offered for sale, via the online auction services, gem shows, and shops, misrepresented as "Amber." The commercial value of Amber is related to its scarcity, age, inclusions of extinct species, and durability. Unfortunately, some dealers are more preoccupied with high economic returns, rather than whether or not their resin is fossil or recent. The age of Copal can vary from 50 years to 1.6 million years in age. It can be considered a semi-fossilized resin or an immature amber.

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Howlite, named for its discoverer Henry How, who found it in Tick Canyon, California in 1868. Howlite is one of those minerals that is more famous for imitating another mineral than being used for itself. In most cases the other mineral is Turquoise, a phosphate gemstone. Although natural Howlite is always white or gray, it can accept dyes fairly easily and be dyed a turquoise blue. The look of turquoise is so good that dishonest dealers have been unfortunately successful at this hoax. In more honest circumstances, dyed howlite is an affordable substitute for turquoise carvings, beads, polished stones and cabochons. It accepts a nice polish and its porcelaneous luster is attractive and enhances even undyed beads and carvings. Unfortunately it has low hardness, but it still has a distinct toughness. California is the source for most all of the howlite trade where nodules of up to one hundred pounds have been found. In addition to the famous turquoise colored Howlite is dyed, it also can become a very bright red color to mimic red coral, or any other color in the rainbow.

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