Surprises -- fake gemstones !

From time to time, certain gemstone catch ones eye at shows, and you just have to get one or some because they are so unique and different. But as the saying goes "Buyer Beware!" There are so many reconstituted items and downright fakes any more, without a good eye, some training and some special tools or tests, it is very hard to spot many of the fakes.

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But once you see and obtain an unusual piece, and then try to work with it, sometimes you find out very quickly that is is not a real gemstone. In a recent attempt to drill a hole for a bail in a newly found item, it quickly became evident that the gemstone was not stone at all but a piece of nicely colored resin. As seen in the picture, the diamond drill bit melted its way through rather than drilling, and left the melted resin adhered to the drill bit.

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So far the most common fakes have been found in Turquoise, Malachite, Calsilica, Copal and Amber, and this just pertains to total fakes and not colored or other modifications done to actual gemstones, or making other gemstones look like something they are not, i.e. Howlite colored to look like Turquoise..

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Wire Working Tools - Part 2

In wire working there are some specialty tools that enable a designer to create something unique and unusual. There are the usual tools as was posted previously, but also these special wire working tools to include wire twisters, coiling pliers, nylon jawed pliers (heavy), rosary pliers (heavy), and bail makers. You can find these online or through a vendor that carries special wire working tools.

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Wire Twisters: These unique tools are used to twist short to medium pieces of wire using just one hand. If you are going to be combining more than 2 pieces of wire, or a bunch of wire twists, than an electric hand drill will also perform the same purpose, only much quicker.

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Coiling Pliers: To make jump rings or wire loops, use coiling pliers that have one jaw that is flat and another that is in a 3-tier step making wire loops. This keeps you from marring your wire too much, as conventional convex/concave pliers can easily mar the wire as you turn loops or use as a bail maker.

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Nylon Lined Jaw Pliers: These pliers are used to straighten wire or for bending, forming and shaping your wire. The nylon lined jaws keep the pliers from again, marring your wire. As you work with these pliers, the nylon jaws will need to be replaced over time as they can get cut up by the raw wire. (Tip: If you don’t want to buy a set of these pliers, then using blue painters tape wrapped around the ends of regular pliers will do the same thing. You have to replace the tape after each use.)

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Rosary Pliers: These pliers are for working with every heavy gauge wire such as 14-16gauge. They are heavy pliers that are built not to slip when used in gripping, turning and twisting of the heavy gauge wire.

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Bail Makers: Bail making pliers are usually rounded diameter cylinder pliers and come in different sizes. You can purchase several different sets of bail makers as each one will usually make 3 different size combinations, usually ranging from 1.5mm to 9mm bail or ring sizes.

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These are just a few of the speciality tools used in wire working. Doing research on the internet, reading books and magazines or taking a class you can learn about many other speciality tools used in wire working.

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Thanks to our daughter-in-law at TimelessDesignsStudio for her wire wrapping info.

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Wire Working Tools - Part 1

There are several different types of of tools used in jewelry making. One starts out with the most common of the type, and as you learn each technique and put your own twist of creativity into the design, one moves into other more advanced or new techniques and types of jewelry making and the tools that go with it.

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Before you invest into the tools and wire, it is recommend that you take a class from your local craft, hobby or beading store. This will give you the chance to really get your hands ‘dirty’ before putting out the money in the tools and wire for the projects you desire.

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Wire working tools are some of the same ones that are used in every type of jewelry making; however there are a few specialty tools for working with heavy gauge wire and to make things like jump rings, connectors and findings. Here are some of the more common essential wire working tools. In part 2, we'll look at some specialty wire working tools and techniques.
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Bent Nose Pliers: Use these to shape or straighten wire and to hold it in place while using other tools. Keep a pair of both large and small sizes to fit most projects. Inspect your pliers before purchase and avoid any with notches on the inside as that can scratch wire. Over time, your pliers will start to show wear and tear; to keep them around longer wrap blue painters tape around the jaws to keep from marring the wire.
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Round Nose Pliers: These are perfect for curving wire or making hooks and loops, which can be used as findings or for attachment pieces. Again have several different sizes ranging in size from small, medium and large, depending on the design, stones and project being worked on.
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Chain Nose Pliers: These pliers are square on the outside, flat on the inside, with a tapered nose to reach into small places. These are excellent for making angles in wire.
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Wire Cutters: These are used to cut normal wire such as gold, sterling, and artistic wire. Do not confuse them with the specialty memory wire cutters that are only used to cut the heaver memory wire. The sharper the cutter, the better, as it will last longer. Again several sizes of cutters may be advisable depending on the guage of wire being used.
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Jeweler’s Files: These come in sets with several sizes and shapes which are used to smooth off the metal. Wooden handles make it more comfortable to hold than all metal files; but is not necessary. Whatever your choice, make sure to get a variety of sizes and shapes to fit any project.
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Bench Block: This is one of my favorite wire working tools; it is used to flatten wire and metal. It gives you a nice, sturdy, solid surface to work from.
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Chasing Hammer: This round tipped hammer is used with the bench block to hammer wire flat. You can also use it in more advanced techniques to give a more hammered or textured look to your wire or metals.
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Thing-a-ma-jig Wire Jig: For making just about any kind of loop, curve, link, or design, a wire jig makes it easier. If you can draw or move a string in any shape, then you can do the same thing with wire when using a jig.
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.Thanks to our daughter-in-law at TimelessDesignsStudio for her wire wrapping info.
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"Natural Stones" are in for Jewelry !

It appears that the Jewelry getting the most attention this Spring leaves the flashy carats of Diamonds, Emeralds, Rubys and Sapphires behind and is drawing its inspiration from the mineral samples in a science museum gift shop. Agate, malachite, moonlight crystal, quartz and shimmering drusies are set in gold, wrapped in wire, strung as pendants or faceted as cocktail rings in ways that showcase the best of what nature has to offer.

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"Authentic, more natural stones are the 'new bling,' " says Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York. "There is a handmade craft and artisanal feel to these new designs, which feels fresh and new." Pieces that feel special but without over-the-top glitz make sense right now, says Los Angeles-based jewelry designer Devon Leigh. "People are reaching back to the Earth and to things that happen naturally," she explains. "There are a lot of negative things happening in the world, and ideas found in nature are balancing and comforting." Leigh uses geodes -- plain on the outside, glittery crystal on the inside -- in her work, slicing them for one-of-a-kind earrings and necklace pendants.

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Yves Saint Laurent's spring collection of rings and necklaces has a similar handcrafted aesthetic, incorporating stones such as turquoise and agate. The stones that sit on top of the "Arty" cocktail rings are encased in what looks like molded gold, formed and set in a rough but sophisticated way. The swerving lines of the setting and varying surface textures add to the organic appeal. "I love the way designers are mixing metals with these stones," Leigh says. "It's not over-the-top hippie. It's edgy and feminine." Erickson Beamon tempers the hippie vibe by using extra-large stones and setting them at random angles, making a multi-strand necklace look like an eclectic statement piece. Jessica Kagan Cushman strings dozens of stones over four tiers to make an eye-catching conversation starter of a necklace. And Etro clearly showcases each stone, faceted on a gold arm cuff to reveal varying grains and gradations of color.

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Some designers love the juxtaposition of earthy and shiny elements. "I have always been drawn to the organic and more unusual stones," says Irene Neuwirth, a Los Angeles-based jewelry designer. "Most recently it's been boulder opals, which I set with diamond pave. No two are ever the same, and the contrast of the earthy stone and diamond pave is really beautiful to me." The large, vividly colored stones make the accessories they're attached to statement pieces. And because the prices of quartz and geodes are so much lower than those of precious gems, designers can take creative liberties with the stones and sell pieces at reasonable prices (unless they add diamonds as decorations, of course).

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The bohemian feel of this jewelry lends a relaxed and romantic vibe to any ensemble. Play up the art nouveau elements by pairing pieces with something soft, pale and flowing. Or use them to soften an outfit that's crisp and stark. The look is distinctive -- and decidedly down to Earth.

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Partial reprint of LA Times article with photos added.

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CRYSTALS IN THE RAW 3 !

Here are some more raw crystals/minerals for your viewing.

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Chalcopyrite (Peacock Stone) from Arizona.

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Zircon Crystal from Brazil.

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Corundum Crystal from Madagascar.

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Cavansite Crystal Cluster from Oregon.

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Analcine Crystal cluster from Washington.

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Thanks to several for providing specimens and to the Scapteguy for information on these crystals.
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DESIGNING HANDMADE JEWELRY !

A quick summary - It isn't this easy !

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Coming up with new designs time after time for the hand-made jewelry sets sometimes can become quite time consuming, especially when you don't want to make anything exactly alike. Sometimes you get lucky and get it right on the first try.

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First, you have to go find the various gemstones one wants to use. Finding gemstones is easy, deciding on what looks best, goes together and what will sell is a whole different story.

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Second, you have your gemstones, no matter if tumbled, cut and polished or faceted, the basic idea of putting various stones together with the varying kinds of metals remains the same. Which goes together and which looks best. Sometime you also have to polish, cut or drill to get exactly what you want.

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Third, getting the design. The specially designed boards that you can lay the stones out in plus give you sizes and lengths come in quite handy at this point. So you take the various kinds of gemstones and start laying them out. That is unless you have a idea or predetermined plan. You keep moving the stones around, even with pre-planned ideas, until something catches your eye that looks nice. At this point you do a temporary stringing to see how it will hang. You will note, as in the picture, at first you may have a single piece laid out with different design pattern to either side of the center.

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Fourth, you bounce your final design off someone else (husbands are handy for this because they sometimes are the ones who buy presents for the wife, thus what catches their eye), but most of the time you revert back to what you think the gals will like because most women buy their own jewelry, except for special occassions.

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Fifth, put it together. See if you like it. Give it to someone to handle to make sure everything is in place and tight.

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One added comment. The main reason most of the time you do not see repeat designs in handmade gemstone jewelry is trying to find enough of the same gemstones to be able to make one piece, let alone several.

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CRYSTAL IN THE RAW 1 !

During the past couple weeks have been able to acquire several collections and individual crystal specimens. As I am able to identify and photograph them, pictures will be posted with their identification, and if known, the location where the particular crystal being shown came from.

Red Vanadinite Crystals from Morocco

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Needle Quartz Crystals from Peru

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Kunzite Crystal from Brazil

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Green Dioptase Crystal from Zaire

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Green Apophyllite Crystal from India

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Thanks to several for providing specimens and to the Scapteguy for information on these crystals.
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Fun after TUCSON !

One of the great things following the Tucson Gem Show is getting home and then sorting though the items you bought to see if they still appeal like they did when you saw them at the show. Then to identify them (the ones you forgot to write down the names for) and determine which will go with whatever else you got or have from past years that will make appealing jewelry. This is the Fun of Tucson and gemstone handmade jewelry making in general.

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Some of the stones in the picture are- Amber, Rhyolite, Ocean Jasper, Brazilian Agate, Rhodochrosite, Bloodstone, Rose Quartz, Fire Agate -to name a few.
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Wide Color Variations - AGATEs !

AGATE GEODE

Agate is a microcrystalline variety of Quartz, chiefly Chalcedony, characterised by its fineness of grain and brightness of color. Although Agates may be found in various kinds of rock, they are classically associated with volcanic rocks but can be common in certain metamorphic rocks.

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FIRE AGATE --- TURRITELLA AGATE --- SPIDERWEB AGATE --- DRAGON VEIN AGATE
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Agates, when cut transversely, exhibit a succession of parallel lines, often of extreme tenuity, giving a banded appearance to the section. Such stones are known as banded agate, ribbed agate and striped agate. Many agates are hollow, since deposition has not proceeded far enough to fill the cavity, and in such cases the last deposit commonly consists of quartz, often amethyst, having the apices of the crystals directed towards the free space so as to form a crystal-lined cavity, or geode

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PERSIAN AGATE -----------------------POLYHEDROID AGATE

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Agates can also be colored by various processes to make interesting jewelry pieces.

COLORED AGATE

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But many Agates have their own varied colorations and thus become ideal pendants.

PLUME AGATE -----------INDIAN MOSS AGATE

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Just don't forget Agates come in a multitude of colors and varieties and more are being named daily. But do remember Agates are a member of the Cryptocrystalline Quartz Family, just as are Carnelian, Chalcedony, Chrysoprase, Jasper, Onyx and Sardonyx. So even with all the variety of names, all are basically the 'species' Chalcedony.

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To Agree or Not Agree to be Trendy !

Be Bold ! Try this Crazy Lace Agate, Turquose & Amber Memory Wire Necklace / Earring Set

Fall Winter Trends Report 2008-2009

From the Jewelry Information Center

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Eureka! The exclamation, attributed to Archimedes on discovering a method for determining the purity of gold, has never been more appropriate. This season, jewelry designers did not hold back creativity, investment and commitment despite the poor value of the dollar and the rising oil and gas prices. For consumers, jewelry continues to be the bright spot in peoples’ marking happy, momentous occasions. Here’s what jewelry styles will be abundant this season:

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Necklaces:
Hard to ignore, oversized necklaces have been shown universally in the major fashion publications over the past several months. There are a few beauties to note in the fine jewelry arena including: Snake-like chain link triple strand necklaces; Mesh webbing “bib” shaped precious metal styles; Intertwined chain link necklaces, modern chunky Riviere necklaces (made to look like a river of gemstones) crafted from affordable colored gemstones clustered together.

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Bracelets:
For Fall/Winter we will see big, bold, blackened and bejeweled cuffs. Blackened sterling silver in particular is the metal of preference for bracelets. Colored gemstones, mostly cabochon, milky and opaque are popular accents. Rose-cut diamonds and colored gemstones also make for subtle sophisticated detailing. Black gemstones paired with high karat gold is a rich look that will also be seen this Fall/Winter.

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Earrings:
Big earrings are back- especially in the form of large gold hoops. Note that the freshest versions are forward facing. Concentric circles floating in the center of an outer hoop are trending. Pavé diamond hoops with lots of “bling” are also welcome additions. Bigger, bolder and brighter diamonds are being used as well as black and brown, champagne, cognac diamonds.

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Rings:
Loved for their punch of color and breath taking size, gemmy cocktail rings have become a fun classic. The news in this category however are the cocktail ring crafted without using large heroic gemstones. Large disks made from precious metals with interesting treatments sit atop the finger for a sixties “Mod” cocktail ring. Clusters of small gemstones form a dramatic compilation cocktail ring. Solid carved gemstones with a hole for the finger are the most avant-guard kind of cocktail rings, appealing to the artsy and confident consumer.

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Reprinted from the AGTA's Information ePrisim.

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Big and Bold Autum Colors using Glass Pearls.
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