GEMSTONE JEWELRY - Should you match Face Shapes and Jewelry Styles ?

It doesn't matter what Season of the Year it is, one thing to remember is that various styles of Necklaces and Earrings, most of the time, go best with particular face shapes. Here are some suggestions by the "experts", but in the end, remember it all depends on what one likes and what the person you might be giving the gift to wants to wear and what they feel they look best wearing. What "you" like and looks best on you, is not always the best shape and style for the one to whom you are giving a jewelry gift to.

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OVAL FACE = Necklaces - wear anything from a choker to a “V” necklace, to a long strand of beads. With this face you can pull anything off. Earrings - Once again, you can pull from any look, so don’t be afraid to wear anything you like.
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ROUND/SQUARE FACE = Necklaces - Your goal is to slim down the face, use long necklaces, stay away from Chokers and large round beads. Earrings - Anything long that draws attention down instead of around is very flattering.
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RECTANGLE FACE = Necklaces - Opposite of the round face, a rectangular face needs to have width added. Something short with thick beads. Earrings - A button or post style looks best, to shorten the length of the face.
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HEART FACE = Necklaces - many say chokers look best because it softens the sharp angle of the chin, and if you add double or triple layers is adds width around the neck balancing the thinness and angles of the chin. Earrings - teardrops, long upside down triangles, something to draw attention away from the narrowness of the chin.
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And as originally said, in the end, no matter what is suggested by the "experts", what is worn is one's own decission to make. Just remember some shapes and colors go much better with your figure, clothing and other accessories, and not with the person you may be giving a gift to. It all depends on how you or that person wishes to stand out -- classy or exotic.
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Pearls - Looking at the inside !

The first thing to point out is that there are several types of oysters and mollusks that are used to produce pearls, both salt-water and freshwater. I am not going to go into the different kinds of pearls in this discussion, just what the inside of all of them basically look like. Borrowing some photographs from the International School of Gemology (ISG) where gemology is taught based on actual specimens of gemstones: natural, synthetic and organic, rather than from pictures in books, we will take a look at the inside of a pearl For this discussion, the internal differences between a salt water Akoya cultured pearls and a Chinese freshwater cultured pearl will be looked at. At the end, a new surprising find will really make one wonder.

Above is seen a 5mm pearl purchased as an Akoya cultured pearl. Notice that it is uniformly round from the seed all the way out to the outer nacre layer, which is the thin line you see at the very edge of the pearl. What was quite remarkable about this pearl is that the center of the pearl is a hollow plastic looking bead, not the Mississippi mussel shell bead that was expected. You can see the circular structure of the Akoya cultured pearl with the bead and resulting layers being rather uniform from center to outer nacre layer.

Now above you see a freshwater cultured pearl from China . These are called non-nucleated pearls since they are started with a ball of tissue rather than a pre-formed bead. The picture is quite graphic to show that the center of this pearl is a somewhat organic looking mass of old tissue rather than a well formed starter bead as seen in the Akoya pearl. These pearls have been back lit to allow one to see the difference in formations, which is rather pronounced and graphically demonstrates the basic difference between the salt water Akoya and the freshwater pearl.

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A question was asked that perhaps since the freshwater pearl was started by what is basically a ball of tissue, that should there not be some kind of hollow place in the center of a freshwater pearl as the tissue degenerates during the growth process? And sure enough, when the viewing angle is changed on the freshwater pearls, one can see hollow places in the pearl as seen in the pictures below of a half drilled 5mm freshwater pearl.

Thus these pictures show what would be seen if you dissect one of those expensive little jewels you have on that string of pearls you got as a gift.

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Now for the surprise. How about opening up one of those very expensive Tahitian South Sea Pearls which are known for their excellent quality and thick nacre layer. But what’s really inside one of those Tahitian pearls? Well, one was cut open and to the surprise of everyone, what was found is almost beyond comprehension !

The center is a plastic bead. Apparently someone has found out how to use plastic instead of natural material to get the Pearl to form.

And taking it one step further, perhaps a reused piece of plastic for the starter bead. Why the multiple holes in the starter bead? Was the pearl farmer recycling plastic? Why place a used, multi-drilled plastic starter bead inside an oyster to make what could turn out to be a very expensive South Sea Tahitian Pearl in the first place?

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But then again, it is this type of perplexing problems that is what makes gemology so much fun and of interesting experiences. A lifetime of learning and sharing the wonders of the earth.

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Again thanks to the ISG for the use of pictures and information.

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OPAL - Australia's National Gemstone

Based on several requests have decided to do a Blog on Opals. However this specific BLOG deals with Australian Opals. Many thanks must go to the Jewelers Association of Australia for their information and pictures. There are other major varieties of opals not covered here, Mexican Fire Opals (transparent to translucent opals with warm body colors yellow, orange, orange-yellow or red and they do not show any play-of-color), Peruvian Opals (semi-opaque to opaque blue-green, green, blue or pink stone found in Peru which is often cut to include the matrix in the more opaque stones. They do not display pleochroism), to name a couple. Other varieties of opal can also be found in Slovakia, Brazil, Ethiopia and the Northwest and Southwestern United States with new finds now reported in China.

The Australian Opal. Nature has captured all the colors of the spectrum, displaying them in an infinite variety of shades, patterns, and brilliance and locked them into this rare stone. Opals lie dormant in the earth until a miner clips the edge and light reaches the gem exposing the most beautiful dancing displays of color. This ‘Play of Color’ is the basis for the opals beauty. It is unique in the world of gemstones. It originates from the breaking up of white light due to the three dimensional spherical shaped microstructure of the silica partials inherent in the opal. Similar color phenomena can be observed when oil lies on water. Opals occur where silica gel fills small fissures or voids in the earth. A large portion of Australia’s inland was once covered by a sea, leaving deposits and creating an environment suitable for the formation of the opal. As the cellulose of the tree wood decays, it leaves empty cells in the wood. As the silicon rich water seeps down into the void, it eventually dries out and leaves the silicon behind to form opals. Some of the water is retained by he silicon dioxide...which is why opals contain so much water. The silicon forms as small rows of round spheres that create the ‘Play-of-color’. Natural Opals are divided into categories to distinguish the location where mined and the specific variety of Opal.

BLACK OPAL is the most valuable and comes mainly from Lightning Ridge. High quality stones are very rare; this type is easily distinguished by the blackness of the base or background body tone.

BLACK CRYSTAL OPAL is mainly mined at Lightning Ridge. These black opals show a degree of transparency, the colors are often brilliant and can appear to come from within the depth of the gemstone. Good black crystal opals are extremely rare.

DARK OPAL comes from all the fields and is desirable because the colors are generally more brilliant, due to the dark background highlighting the colors. Good specimens of this type of opal mainly come from Mintabie and Lightning Ridge.

LIGHT OPAL is usually found at all opal fields but the bulk of the better material comes from the South Australian fields of Coober Pedie and Andamooka, although the first material was mined at White Cliffs. Some light opals are so light they are called White Opals (2nd picture above).

CRYSTAL OPAL embraces opals which are transparent or very translucent and in the better quality stones shows a distinct and very bright play-of-color. This type of opal is found in most Australian opal fields.

BOULDER OPAL is composed of opal naturally occurring on its host rock. It is mined predominantly in Queensland. It is easily identified because when cut, the host rock if left on the sides and/or back of the opal. Boulder Opal may be light, dark or black within the host rock. This type of opal in cabochon settings, has become very popular in the past few years, especially those stone that have the host rock all around the ‘window’ of opal in the center of the stone.



MATRIX OPAL comes in two types in Australia.

-BOULDER MATRIX OPAL is usually found in Queensland. The opal is intimately diffused with the host rock (usually ironstone so is magnetic), which is quite obvious in the presentation face of the stone.

-MATRIX OPAL from the Andamooka area has opal internally diffused throughout the host rock, a sandstone, which is often porous and can be treated, turning the material dark, resembling black opals.

NATURAL OPALS are the complete opal cut and polished as one piece. These can be very fragile and easily damaged when worn.



COMPOSITE NATURAL OPALS consist of a natural opal laminate manually cemented or attached to another material. There are three main types.

-DOUBLET OPAL is a composite of two pieces where a slice of natural opal is cemented to a base backing material.

-TRIPLET OPAL is a composition of three pieces where a thin slice of natural opal is cemented between a dark base material and a transparent top layer, usually of quartz or glass.

-MOSAIC CHIP OPAL is a composition of small flat or irregularly shaped pieces of natural opal cemented as a mosaic tile on a dark base material or encompassed into resin.

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There are three (3) specific other Opal types that also come from Australia that I hope to gather further information on and be able to post a Blog in teh near future on them - Andamooka, Koroit and Yowah Opals. Check out the Opal Forum at

http://forums.opalauctions.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1647&start=180

for informatin on these Opals.

SYNTHETIC and IMITATION OPAL has become a real problem worldwide, but not a problem in Australia. Australian law deals harshly with anyone making or selling synthetic or imitation opals and the few retailers who have them, will have them so marked and inform purchasers of this fact. You will see very few within Australia.

For our budding gemologist and geologist, opal is a mineraloid, it is an amorphous SIO2 - NH2O (hydrated silicon dioxide). The water content is usually between three and ten percent, but can be as high as 20%. It is a 6 on the Mohs scale of hardness. Opal has a RI: 1.44 - 1.46 -- Birefringence: None -- Optic Character: None -- Specific Gravity: 2.10 average but varies based on amount of water contained in the stone.

Opal is the traditional birthstone for October and the state gemstone of Nevada.

Caring for your Opals
As with Pearls, the number one care item for Opals is to never have them on when using hair spray or wear them when doing rough work.
Solid Opals -- Opal is a soft stone, so it is important to treat your opal carefully In order to avoid damaging it. Remove your opal jewelry if there is a chance it will be scratched or broken (i.e. working in the garden, moving furniture, etc.) Many people believe solid opals can be damaged by water - however, this only applies to doublets and triplets. Solid opals are fine in water. In fact, most precious opals contain about 5-6% water. As a result, opal may crack if subjected to very dry conditions or rapid changes in temperature. Try to avoid very high temperatures or low humidity extremes, such as boiling water or zero humidity bank vaults.
Doublets & Triplets -- Caring for doublets or triplets is a little different to caring for opals. Because doublets and triplets consist of multiple layers glued together, prolonged exposure to water will eventually cause lifting between the layers and the infiltration of water. A doublet or triplet will take on a 'foggy' or grey appearance if this happens. This does not mean your opal will be ruined if you wear it in the shower once, or are caught in the rain. It takes prolonged exposure to cause water damage to a doublet or triplet.
Cleaning Your Opals
Solid opal should be cleaned gently with mild detergent in warm water and a soft toothbrush or cloth. Avoid bleach, chemicals and cleaners. Doublets & triplets may be wiped with a damp soft cloth and mild detergent, but should never be soaked or immersed. Never allow anyone to clean your opal in an ultrasonic cleaner, as the intense vibrations may cause cracking in a solid opal, and water penetration in a doublet or triplet. If your stone loses its shine or becomes scratched, bring it back to an opal cutter. After years of wear, small scratches and scuff marks cause an opal to lose its shiny polish and become dull looking. Professional polishing can bring new life to an opal which has become dull or scratched, and we can also check for claw damage and ensure the security of the setting.
Storing Your Opals
If you need to store your opal away for a period of time, simply place it in a padded cloth bag for protection and store it away. For longer storage periods, place your opal in a sealed plastic bag wrapped in cotton wool with a few drops of water just to be safe. The water is not intended to soak into the stone (as opal is impervious) but will prevent water coming out of the stone if it is exposed to very low humidity environments (for example, zero humidity storage safes).

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LAZURITE - Varieties, Trade Names & Misnomers !

After posting a picture of some new material that was recently acquired, several e-mails were received with information that one of the stones had been misidentified. Misidentification is a very easy thing to do, but one must also remember that the same exact stone may be called one thing in one place and a totally different name someplace else, with all names being correct. Thus we have what are called Varieties, Trade Names and Misnomers.

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The stone in the picture was identified as Afgan Lazurite Quartz. Now the mineralogy world says this about Lazurite. 'Lazurite is a popular but generally expensive mineral. Well-formed, deep blue crystals are rare and valuable. It is found combined with other minerals, most commonly combined into a rock called Lapis Lazuli, as shown in the second picture. Lapis Lazuli or Lapis for short is mostly made up of Lazurite, but commonly contains Pyrite. Lazurite can also contain Calcite and is sometimes mixed with various colors of Quartz.'

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The name means "blue rock" and it is always a brilliant blue with violet or greenish tints. The rich blue color is due to the sulfur that is inherent in the structure of Lazurite. Small crystals of Pyrite are always present in Lapis and their brassy yellow color is both attractive and diagnostic in distinguishing lapis from its also blue cousin - Sodalite, which lacks Pyrite. The Calcite produces white streaks in the Lapis, thus forming a multi-colored stone many times also containing pieces of various colored Quartz, as seen in the first picture. This particular pendant could be call Quartz, Calcite or Lazurite, maybe even Granite or Marble, because all are present. But since the Lazurite is the rarest of the minerals present, it is being referred to as a Lazurite Pendant. Since it happens to be known where it also came from, the name Afgan is added to its identification.

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Just for comparison purposes, the small carved cross is Sodalite. To really keep one on their toes when looking for or shopping for specific stones, here is a partial listing of the names that Lazurite goes by ---- Lapis Lazuli, Afgan Lapis, Chilean Lapis, California Lazuli, Lasurite, Persian Lapis, Russian Lapis, Sapphiros of Phiny, Siberian Lazuli, Ultramarine Pigment, Canadian Lapis, German Lapis, Hackmanite, Sodalite, Ditroite. Many of these 'variety' names are based on the amount of Lazurite and other minerals also present in the specimen.

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No matter what the name, fantastic and unique pieces of jewelry can be made out of this material, and look great in combination with other gemstones.

Afgan Lazurite Quartz Pendant with Jade and Copper

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Reclaiming Gold !

Most of us have seen recently an increase on TV of sales pitches for recycling one's old gold. Even some of the TV Gem and Jewelry channels have now gotten into the scene. With gold topping $1000.00 an oz for the second time in 2 years, people are scrambling to sell off their old gold. Recycling of computers and electronics for gold, platinum and silver as well as copper, has also hit an all time high.

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Since the early Egyptians, jewelers have always recycled gold. It has a specific intrinsic value, so no one simply, unless by accident, tosses this precious metal into the trash bin. Those who wish to part with their old gold jewelry, coins, pieces of gold sell the items to local retailers or metal refiners, who weigh each item and pay cash for the percentage of pure gold present (note: pure gold is 24K, anything less, ie 9K, 10K, 14K, and 18K, is a percentage of pure gold mixed with other, less valuable metals mainly tin and copper for yellow gold and other minerals for various shades from rose, to white to green – these are all called alloy gold).
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Generally speaking, most consumers are never aware of the origin of the gold in their jewelry. However, lately media attention has been focusing on many harmful effects of the unethical mining on nearby communities and the environment in totality, and the term “dirty” gold gets its moniker from such mining practices. Critics say that a single band of gold leaves behind more than twenty tons of mine waste. Some of this is simply rock, however, mixed with the rock are other toxic metals and the acids that are used to seperate out the gold. The personnel working at the mines are also exposed and the ground is also in danger as these liquids can leach into groundwater creating a dangerous health hazard to wild as well as human life. Concerned jewelry manufacturers and designers are examining their gold sources far more closely these days, and some have joined the “No Dirty Gold” campaign founded and dedicated to protecting communities and the environment from the destructive impacts of mineral development, in the U.S. and worldwide.
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There are many who now as a marketing tool, market their use of recycled-gold as better for the environment. This permits us, as consumers, to be more responsible for and sensitive to the repercussions of our jewelry purchases. But the fact remains that the use of this recycled gold has relatively no impact on the issues surrounding the problems associated with today's gold mining techniques to find this most elusive and growing scarcer material/mineral/metal.

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No matter what ones feelings are on the subject, recycling of precious metals is here to stay. Even non-government issued Gold Coins have entered the market for use in barter.
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CRYSTALS IN THE RAW 2 !

As a continuation of the identification of crystal specimens, here are several more pictures with their identification, and if known, the location where the particular crystal being shown came from.

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Terminated Green Uvite Tourmaline Crystal from Zaire

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Pink Rubellite Tourmaline Crystal from Brazil

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Green Prehnite Crystal from India

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Golden Vesuvianite Crystals from Canada

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Light Green Aquamarine Crystal from Brazil

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Thanks to several for providing specimens and to the Scapteguy for information on these crystals.
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DESIGNING HANDMADE JEWELRY !

A quick summary - It isn't this easy !

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Coming up with new designs time after time for the hand-made jewelry sets sometimes can become quite time consuming, especially when you don't want to make anything exactly alike. Sometimes you get lucky and get it right on the first try.

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First, you have to go find the various gemstones one wants to use. Finding gemstones is easy, deciding on what looks best, goes together and what will sell is a whole different story.

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Second, you have your gemstones, no matter if tumbled, cut and polished or faceted, the basic idea of putting various stones together with the varying kinds of metals remains the same. Which goes together and which looks best. Sometime you also have to polish, cut or drill to get exactly what you want.

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Third, getting the design. The specially designed boards that you can lay the stones out in plus give you sizes and lengths come in quite handy at this point. So you take the various kinds of gemstones and start laying them out. That is unless you have a idea or predetermined plan. You keep moving the stones around, even with pre-planned ideas, until something catches your eye that looks nice. At this point you do a temporary stringing to see how it will hang. You will note, as in the picture, at first you may have a single piece laid out with different design pattern to either side of the center.

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Fourth, you bounce your final design off someone else (husbands are handy for this because they sometimes are the ones who buy presents for the wife, thus what catches their eye), but most of the time you revert back to what you think the gals will like because most women buy their own jewelry, except for special occassions.

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Fifth, put it together. See if you like it. Give it to someone to handle to make sure everything is in place and tight.

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One added comment. The main reason most of the time you do not see repeat designs in handmade gemstone jewelry is trying to find enough of the same gemstones to be able to make one piece, let alone several.

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CRYSTAL IN THE RAW 1 !

During the past couple weeks have been able to acquire several collections and individual crystal specimens. As I am able to identify and photograph them, pictures will be posted with their identification, and if known, the location where the particular crystal being shown came from.

Red Vanadinite Crystals from Morocco

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Needle Quartz Crystals from Peru

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Kunzite Crystal from Brazil

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Green Dioptase Crystal from Zaire

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Green Apophyllite Crystal from India

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Thanks to several for providing specimens and to the Scapteguy for information on these crystals.
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ADDITIONAL NEW DESIGNS !

The following new sets use combinations of Agate, Arizona Turquoise, Bronzite, Ceramic Beads, Czech Crystal, Arizona Magnesite (Wild Horse), Onyx and Tiger Iron in varying designs with silver and gold highlights and clasps. All the sets have matching Earrings.

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All these sets will be placed on the web-site over the next week.

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TURQUOISE !

In response to e-mails, yes got more and some different types of Turquoise at Tucson this year. Currently am busy creating some different designs and mixing the Turquoise with new and different types of gemstones, plus have found in many cases Copper looks much better than the old stand-by Silver for the accents and clasps.

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Here are some new designs that will soon appear on the Web-site.

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S O L D................................ .

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And here are the last containing Turquoise that are left from last year.
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Set GS184 --- Set GS177

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SPRING IS COMING!

In keeping with Spring trends of lighter weight clothing, here are a couple new jewelry pieces that are both smaller in size, than the larger bulkier necklaces, much lighter in weight plus will allow the wearer to combine them with business attire, and be in great style.

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Please check out the web-site for these and other new pieces.

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PURCHASING GEMSTONES !

Several have asked the past few days about how they should buy when attending a show like the Tucson Gem Show, or even the smaller gem, gemstone or mineral shows being held in their hometowns or close by areas. Probably the simplest answers are in the form of questions - "Why are you buying ?" and "What are you planning on doing with the items you purchase ?"
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Buying bulk is of course the cheapest method, if you have a need for many of the same items.

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Actually there are two ways to buy in bulk. The first as shown above is "strings" usually called "shanks" of the same gemstones or pearls. These are usually bought by size, weight or number of the same items in the shank. Sometimes you can find same size, same weight, same stone but various colors. Faceted gemstones will usualy come in size and weight, or sometimes in mixtures of the same stone. The advantage here is when you get home, everything is already sorted and named for you, in most cases.

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The other bulk method is grab bags. In most cases these are 'you get what you see' but have no idea as to sizes, weights or quality. Both gemstones for stringing and faceted gemstones can be bought this way. The fun here begins when you get back home, sorting by color, size, weight, cutting and finally by gemstone type, especially when dealing with faceted stones.

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And for those that have the capability and skill to cut, polish and drill their own stones, buying by the "slab" is definitely the way to go.

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Then for those that have a specific project or customer in mind, you can buy the individual stones. Of course you pay a bit more but you don't end up with left overs.

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And then for those that have the big expense accounts, purchasing finished jewelry pieces with gemstones already mounted.

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Whicever way you decide to purchase your materials, rough, cut and polished, bulk, individually or finished piece, you can have a lot of fun and learn a whole lot about the world of Gemology and Jewelry by attending one of these shows.

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